1Remove Existing Flooring

Remove any existing flooring, baseboards, and trim. Ensure the subfloor is completely exposed and clean. Remove any nails, staples, or debris that could cause problems during installation.

2Inspect and Prepare the Subfloor

The subfloor must be:

• Level: No more than 1/8 inch variation over 6 feet
• Clean: Free of dirt, dust, and debris
• Dry: Moisture content should be below 12% for wood subfloors
• Solid: No squeaks, loose boards, or damage

For concrete subfloors, check for moisture using a moisture meter. If moisture is present, install a moisture barrier.

3Acclimate the Flooring

Place unopened boxes of flooring in the room where they'll be installed for at least 48 hours before installation. This allows the flooring to adjust to the room's temperature and humidity, preventing expansion or contraction after installation.

Keep boxes flat and in a climate-controlled environment (between 65-85°F with 35-65% relative humidity).

4Install Underlayment (If Required)

Some flooring products require underlayment, while others have it built-in. Check your product specifications. If underlayment is needed:

• Roll out underlayment perpendicular to the direction of the flooring
• Overlap seams by 6-8 inches and tape them together
• Trim excess underlayment at the edges

5Plan Your Layout

Start by finding the longest, straightest wall in the room. This will be your starting point. Measure the width of the room and calculate how many full planks will fit. If the last row will be less than 3 inches wide, adjust your starting row by cutting the first row narrower.

Use a chalk line to mark a reference line parallel to your starting wall, accounting for the expansion gap (typically 1/4 inch).

6Install the First Row

Start with the first plank in the corner, with the tongue side facing the room. Place spacers between the plank and the wall to maintain the expansion gap.

Continue installing the first row, clicking planks together end-to-end. Cut the last plank to fit, ensuring you maintain the expansion gap at the end wall.

7Continue Installing Rows

For the second row, start with a plank that's at least 6 inches shorter or longer than the first plank in the previous row. This creates a staggered pattern that looks more natural and provides better structural integrity.

Angle the new plank into the previous row's groove, then lower it and click it into place. Use a tapping block and rubber mallet to ensure a tight fit.

Continue this process for each subsequent row, maintaining the staggered pattern and expansion gaps.

8Cut Around Obstacles

For doorways, corners, and other obstacles:

• Measure the space carefully
• Mark the plank using a speed square for straight cuts
• Cut using a utility knife (score and snap) or a saw
• Test fit before final installation

For pipes and other round obstacles, drill a hole slightly larger than the pipe, then cut a slot from the edge of the plank to the hole.

9Install the Final Row

Measure the width needed for the final row, accounting for the expansion gap. Cut planks to width (you may need to remove the tongue side).

Use a pull bar to click the final row into place, ensuring a tight fit against the previous row while maintaining the expansion gap against the wall.

10Install Transition Strips and Baseboards

Install transition strips in doorways to other rooms. These can be attached with adhesive or screws, depending on the type.

Reinstall baseboards and trim to cover the expansion gaps. Use quarter-round molding if needed to cover larger gaps or if baseboards don't reach the floor.